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Thread: Parts to Build Your Own A-Mod

  1. #1

    Default Parts to Build Your Own A-Mod

    I have enough parts to allow someone to build their own A-Mod Auto-X car (or hire me to build it for you)

    1 each 1300 cc Hayabusa bike motor (180 hp) with the electrical converted to work in a car, runs, last used in my A-mod car: $1500
    1 each 1300 cc Hayabusa bike motor, complete, never used since purchased from a salvage yard (kept as a spare): $2000
    1 each chain drive differential assembly from Taylor Race Engineering (costs over $2600 new), never used: $1900
    Drive Sprocket and Drag Race quality drive chain: $100
    Pair of Rear Uprights: $200
    Pair of Front uprights: $200
    Front Wheels, Aluminum, Real Race Wheels 13X10, $100 each
    Rear Wheels, Aluminum, Real Race Wheels: 13X14, $100 each
    Single Seater Steering Rack, From a Formula Ford: $150

    Any other part you can think of for a A-mod I problably have,

    Need money to replace the tires I smoked at the last event,

    Dennis

  2. #2

    Default A-Mod Parts

    But, wait, there is more!

    Billet Wilwood brake calipers, suitable for car less than 1500 lbs, new with pads: $75 each
    Wildwood brake rotors, ultra light drilled rotors: $60 each
    Aluminum brake harts for the above: $50 each
    Steel braded brake lines, used: $10 to $20 each depending on length
    Aero shaped chrome moly tubing for suspension a-arms: $2.00 per foot
    Speedway Engineering Quick Change Rear end for independent suspension cars, new: $1900 (suitable for your Land Speed Record car)
    Oil coolers
    Radiators
    Oil lines
    Fittings
    Rod ends
    Mil-Spec bolts and hardware

    the list goes on...............

    Dennis
    209 586 2975
    dlosher@aol.com

  3. #3
    Jst4Fun's Avatar
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    James Boyd

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    Dennis-

    Shocks?

    Valving and static length?
    Diameter of rotors and caliper size.

    I run an EP CRX with 13X8 rims. and want to reduce that to 13X7 in order to get down to 1488 lbs.

    James Boyd
    If it runs...race it!!!

    "There are race car drivers and people who drive race cars, I am the latter" Paul Newman

  4. #4

    Default

    James,

    The calipers are Wilwood P/N 120-4060 (new w/ pads), at 1.58 lbs each, the lightest caliper around. 1.75 in cylinders. Made for .25 to .375 in thick rotors. 3.75 in mount spacing. See Wilwood catalog on line for full details

    I have 2 sets of Wilwood Rotors, 1 pair 10.5 in OD, .350 in thick, 6 bolt on 5.5 in bolt pattern mounting. About 4 lbs each:::, 1 pair 10.0 in dia, .25 in thick , Wilwood part number 160-1602 (still in original shipping wraping), 5 bolt on 5.00 in bolt pattern, 3.2 lbs each.

    You cannot get a lighter set of brakes for the money.

    I do have a pair of QA1 Aluminum body non adjustable coil over shocks (never used), 14.0 inch extended, 10.5 inch compressed, with all the spring mount hardware, Fits 2.5 in ID springs. I have a bunch of springs as well.

    Use my email if you need photos.

    Dennis
    dlosher@aol.com
    209 586 2975

  5. #5

    Default

    James,

    I may have a set of 13X7 rims, need to check when I get to the shop. But they will need to have the centers replaced to fit your CRX, or redrill the centers that are there.

    Dennis

  6. #6
    2159ClassicRed's Avatar
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    Kurt Wong

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    Quick thread hi-jack, what's the weight on your 13x8s James? I'd assume more rim is better even at the cost of weight.
    Kurt
    1990 Classic Red Miata (STR/Track)
    2007 Stormy Blue Mica RX8 (STX)
    2013 Asphalt FRS (C-Street - Thanks Kat!)
    Photos
    "pitbowl" (GT5)

  7. #7
    Jst4Fun's Avatar
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    Kurt-

    I actually do not know the exact weight of the rims. It is not much though, I think rim AND tire are around 25lbs.

    The issue is the weight PENALTY. With the 13X8 I have to take a 75lb weight penalty, brining my minimum weight up to 1,563. By going to the 13X7's I can bring my minimum weight down to 1,488. If I can mount my current tires on 7" rims I do not lose any contact patch (Hoosier says the tires I run can mount on either 7 or 8" rims).

    The CRX weighs 1,598 currently. That is with a Marine battery, 5 coats of paint, undercoating, and internal body bracing that is no longer necessary due to the roll-cage.

    Of coarse none of this matters if I do not get the suspension back under the car and it out to the track.
    If it runs...race it!!!

    "There are race car drivers and people who drive race cars, I am the latter" Paul Newman

  8. #8

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    steve carlson

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    Grassroots motorsports did some testing on unsprung weight.... maybe last summer??? The article indicated very little difference between a very light wheel/tire combination and one of the heaviest they could find. They test bed was their Miata if I remember correctly. The results seemed to go in the face of everything I've ever read about the importance of minimal unsprung weight. I still think less is best..... unless it's REALLY expensive.

  9. #9

    Default Physics Lesson

    Steve brings up some good points, and history has shown that all pro race cars run the lightest wheels/tires possible within the rules. The issue is how much performace is gained. Rotational inertia of a wheel/tire combination is a function of its weight and how the weight is distributed. Higher the weight/inertia the more engine torque it takes to accelerate it. This is a simple law of physics. If Grassroots could not measure the difference of a heavy wheel to a light wheel it is likely the car was relatively low power (resulting in a relative slow vehicle acceleration to start with) and the weight of the wheel/tire was a small percentage of the total vehicle weight. As the hp/wt ratio of the race car is increased, the accleration of the car is quicker, and the impact of the rotational interia is increased. Saving 5 lbs per wheel/tire on a car that weighs 1500 lbs and can acclerate 0-60 in 5 seconds or less is a siginficant measurable improvement in performance that would show up in a typical auto-x course. Saving 5 lbs per wheel/tire on a car that weighs 3000 lbs and accelerates 0-60 in 8 seconds or slower is not likely to show measurable improvement in a typical autocross course.

    Getting the biggest bang for the buck is the most important factor for anyone on a budget. Reduction in 5 lbs per wheel (20 lbs total) is the same as reducing over 80 lbs of static weight for a typical race car. Which is easier/cheaper depends on the car. As you approach the minimum weight feasible, the last few pounds are the most expensive.

    Dennis

  10. #10
    2159ClassicRed's Avatar
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    I never looked at it this way, but CSP Miata guys were given a problem to solve, and that was either a lighter 255 tire on a 13" rim, or the infamous 275 tire on a 15" rim, which was heavier of the two. So me being me, I thought 255 would be a better/faster setup than the heavier 15" setup. Spoke to a CSP guy about it who tried both, and his thoughts were that the 15" setup, being taller and heavier helped reduce inside wheel spin. Goes back to the old balance theme. Give up some for a gain somewhere else, all for the goal of a perfect balance.

    Anyways, back to Dennis's awesome car items!
    Kurt
    1990 Classic Red Miata (STR/Track)
    2007 Stormy Blue Mica RX8 (STX)
    2013 Asphalt FRS (C-Street - Thanks Kat!)
    Photos
    "pitbowl" (GT5)

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