Help! Wheel hub bearing stuck

[mavtais]

I have a Nissan 350Z with Nismo LSD installed. It seems that the LSD may have been installed incorrectly (not shimmed correctly), and I know for sure the right rear axle has some play. I can get under the car and shake it.
Because I have an aftermarket (clutch-type) diff, it chatters and locks pretty violently (some of you have seen and heard my car at Castle).
I need to get to the bearing, but the hub has been shoved into the brake rotor center hole by the chattering force of the LSD. Now my right rear wheel wobbles.
Question # 1. Anyone have any ideas on how to get the disc off? We hit it with WD-40, pounded the heck out of it last night, woke up some neighbors, and it still would not budge. :mad:
Question # 2. Anyone else with clutch-type LSD beat up on their wheel bearings?

[bgriggs]

PB Blaster always works 1000x better than anything else for me.

Possibly rent a puller from Autozone? May end up with a messed up rotor but it would be off.

Any pics of the problem?

[Jst4Fun]

If you have been hammering the rotor it is a good bet the rotor and bearing are probably trashed. Try heat. The metals will expand at different rates allowing you to separate the two.

[fastFijian]

heat the heck out of it and keep pounding. just be careful to heat what u will replace as it will change the property of metals.

[thad]

so it originally had the nismo diff and has since been replaced with and aftermarket clutch type? were the carrier bearings replaced at the time? is it noisy under load or even just at speed? lash could be off on one or both axis' (pinion and thrust) but i would not expect that to cause a stuck hub. as for the rotor, check for threaded bores between studs, if you have them, thread a bolt into it and the rotor should eventually pop off, if not, a hub puller should do the trick.

[mavtais]

Thanks for the advices (is that a word?). Come to think of it, there is a threaded hole on the rotor hat. I'll try a combination of threading a bolt into the hole, pulling, pounding, and heat. Maybe PB Blaster.

Thad, BTW, the Nismo is an aftermarket clutch-type LSD. The oem one is a viscous (uses the viscosity of oil) LSD.

[thad]

Thanks for the advices (is that a word?). Come to think of it, there is a threaded hole on the rotor hat. I'll try a combination of threading a bolt into the hole, pulling, pounding, and heat. Maybe PB Blaster.

Thad, BTW, the Nismo is an aftermarket clutch-type LSD. The oem one is a viscous (uses the viscosity of oil) LSD.

I guess i never really considered NISMO aftermarket since its a factory tuning division, was it manufacturer installed, dealer installed, or otherwise?
before you heat it up, try threading bolts into the holes until there's is a good deal of tension, then hit the rotor with the PB blaster and walk away for about 10-15 minutes, when you come back, give it a few whacks with a mallet, if it doesn't budge, try turning the bolts some more. depending on the size and material of the bolts, you probably don't want to exceed 60-70 lbs.ft. when threading them through.